Glasgow Round Trip: Inverness and the North

This leg of the trip covers a lot of the main urban centres included in the route, so you might want to spend a while taking in the cultural and historical highlights. You can compare the delights of Glasgow and Edinburgh, Scotland’s two biggest cities, and then head into Cairngorms National Park for some wilderness.

*If you're beginning your trip in the area, find motorhome rentals in Edinburgh and Inverness.

Glasgow

Scotland’s biggest city has broken out of its grey, industrial box to become a popular and vibrant destination that retains a down-to-earth atmosphere and a bit of grit. It has more parkland than any other British city, but that’s not all: visitors love Glasgow for its live music, Victorian architecture, museums, galleries, eateries and friendly character.

Outstanding examples of architecture abound in Glasgow, and there is plenty to entertain the eyes of even the most casual building spotter. The impressive Glasgow Cathedral is a great place to start your sightseeing, a Gothic structure near the city centre which dates back to medieval times. From there, the trail could include the authoritative-looking City Chambers, the original St Enoch subway station which now serves as a cafe next to the modernised station, the well-restored Willow Tea Rooms and the Mitchell Library with its wonderful green dome. The modern Clyde Arc is an iconic sight of Glasgow.

Museums and galleries are a given attraction in any city, but Glasgow has a particularly delightful collection. Perhaps the highest-rated is the Burrell Collection of art and other treasures which was donated to the city by wealthy industrialist William Burrell. Many of the other institutions will appeal to all ages, such as the Glasgow Police Museum or the Science Centre. The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is spectacular on the outside, quirky and unusual on the inside, with a range of different collections.

For locals and lovers of Glasgow, the sports and music scenes are amongst the city’s best features. Wander downtown in the evenings to find a venue or pub with a live band or musician, and you could stumble on the next big thing. Favourite spots include Nice’n’Sleazy on Sauciehall Street, King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut on St. Vincent’s Street and the Barrowland Ballroom on Gallowgate. The city’s three football stadia are Hampden Park, Celtic Park and Ibrox Stadium, and you can catch club games here as well as national-level games at Hampden Park.

When the time comes to depart Glasgow, pick up your motorhome hire and get on the M8 heading east through suburbs and small rural towns towards Edinburgh.

Edinburgh

With a little more historic charm than Glasgow, Scotland’s capital is a visual treat. Double city centres mean there is something for everyone: Old Town or New Town, take your pick!

The Old Town, or Royal Mile as it is so delightfully called, is perched on the ridge which drops away from Edinburgh Castle in the west to the Palace of Holyrood in the east. It is a cobbled street busy with pedestrians and lined with fabulous historic granite buildings, including some of particular note such as St Giles Cathedral, the Museum of Edinburgh and Gladstone’s Land which is the restored high tenement house of a wealthy merchant.

The Edinburgh Castle perches on a rocky outcrop at the top of the Royal Mile, looking like a slice of the highlands right in the middle of the city. Inside this fortress you can visit the National War Museum, the Half Moon Battery. the National War Memorial, the Scottish crown jewels and more.

The New Town lies below the Royal Mile to the north, with Edinburgh Waverley train station and Princes Street Gardens between the two. Laid out in a regular grid pattern, it is the centre of shopping and commerce, with plenty of opportunity for retail therapy and a lot of places to eat and be entertained. Although less touristy than the Old Town, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with some great Georgian (18th century) architecture. Here you will find the  Scottish National Gallery, the Georgian House which has been restored to show visitors a slice of life in the 1700s, and the Scott Monument where you can climb 200ft for great views over Edinburgh.

Many of the historical attractions and museums in Edinburgh are informative, interactive and interesting, making them fun for young and old alike. Older kids might enjoy the spooky side of the city with a walking ghost tour or a visit to Mary King’s Close. The close is one of a series which were covered over by new construction more than a century ago, now located underneath the Royal Exchange. An area have these have been excavated, so visitors can descend underground and visit some downright eerie streets which used to be at ground level. Tours are complete with ghost stories and guides in period dress. Younger and more easily scared children will marvel at the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions near the castle, or enjoy a trip to the Edinburgh Zoo.

Continue on your merry way from Edinburgh across the firth of forth via the lovely Forth Road suspension bridge, where the M90 will take you northwards past Perth and into some more hilly landscapes.

Pitlochry

On the edge of the highlands proper you will find Pitlochry, a bustling Scottish town on the River Tummel. You’ll have to exit the A9 to call in, but it’s well worth the visit for that small-town atmosphere: stone buildings, cosy tearooms and flowers in pots all along the main street. Edradour Distillery is located just outside of Pitlochry, and is the smallest traditional distillery in the country, a gem amongst the many other whiskey-making outfits. The gorgeous red-and-white buildings house authentic small-scale production of single malt, and the inexpensive tours include a tasting, a visit to all stages of production and a complimentary tasting glass. There is also a tasting bar, and a retail shop. Even those who don’t like whiskey will be enchanted by this place!

Pitlochry is also considered a base for outdoor recreation. Adventure seekers will find several providers, including the “Nae Limits” outdoor activity centre which has a great range of excursions: white water rafting, canyoning, tubing, quad biking, aqualining and more. For the ultimate rush, Highland Fling Bungee has a location in nearby Killiecrankie, a scenic leap from the Garry Bridge over the lovely River Garry.

Cairngorms National Park

Soon after leaving Pitlochry you will come across the Cairngorms National Park, a vast unspoilt wilderness which holds forests, mountains, lochs, peatland and farmland. It is also sprinkled with towns and villages such as Aviemore and Kingussie where you could base yourself for some in-depth exploration. There are plenty of caravan parks and campsites throughout Cairngorms.

You won’t lack things to do in this natural playground. As always, walking is the simplest way to get acquainted with the landscapes, and there are plenty of paths and tracks to suit all levels of ability and time constraints. There is wildlife to see, from swans, ospreys, eagles and other birds to deer, squirrels and all manner of mammals. Spectacular scenery is on offer everywhere, along with a range of outdoor recreation opportunities, and you can discover Cairngorms in whatever way takes your fancy. In fact, you’ll get a good feeling for the place before you even get out of the motorhome - the Telegraph named this section of the A9 one of Scotland’s most scenic drives.

Once you have seen all you’d like to see in Cairngorms, it’s a short drive to Inverness, the end of this action-packed leg.
 

This short leg will take you as far north as you’re going to go! Do it in a single day or take your time, but either way enjoy the introduction to the true Scottish Highlands.

*If you're beginning your trip in Inverness, find your nearest motorhome rental depot here.
 
Inverness
 
Astride the River Ness where it opens out into Moray Firth sits Inverness, the most northerly city in the British Isles. Nessie, who allegedly lurks in the nearby Loch Ness, is one of the main draws for visitors to the “Highland Capital,” but the friendly atmosphere, heritage buildings, restaurants, shopping and events certainly sweeten the deal.
 
You can wander the small city centre on foot to see the architectural highlights. These include Inverness Castle, a pink-sandstone fortress built in 1847 to replace one blown up by the Jacobite rebellion, the Old High Church and the Inverness Town House. Take a walk along the river to see the heart of the city and visit the midstream Ness Islands, a lovely spot of wilderness so close to civilization.
 
A few suggestions: visiting the ruins of Urquhart Castle, taking an informative Jacobite Cruise with an audio guide (and some sonar monster-detection equipment), fishing, browsing the lakeside villages, canoeing or hiking. There are a number of caravan parks around the loch, should you wish to stay somewhere with facilities for the night.
 
East Coast Highlands

Depart Inverness and make your way north on the A9. This eastern coast is gentler than the mountains to the west, with pretty moors, undulating hills and a string of fishing villages. There are no major attractions along this stretch of the road, but plenty of beautiful places to stop and an engaging coastal drive - you might just fall in love with one of the villages and decide to stay a few days.
 
Glenmorangie is a household name, and the distillery which produces this famous whiskey is found along the A9, just outside the town of Tain on Dornoch Firth. Here you can take a tour to experience all the stages of whiskey production on a grand scale, as well as sample the wares (don’t do this if you are going to drive) and browse the shop for a souvenir. 
 
A slight detour is required to visit Dornoch, but it’s worth it - especially for keen golfers. The historic town is the location for the Royal Dornoch championship course which is consistently ranked among the top twenty courses in the world. If you visit, be sure to also check out the town’s impressive cathedral which was founded in 1224.
 
Dunrobin Castle is a spectacular stately home on the coast, the family seat of the Earl of Sutherland and Clan Sutherland. With 189 rooms and extensive grounds inspired by the Palace of Versailles, it is the largest castle in the northern Highlands, and an impressive sight both inside and out. The castle is open to the public most of the year except the winter months, with an entry fee of 11 pounds per adult.
 
Helmsdale is a pretty riverside town which you will pass through on your way up the coast, one of several lovely highland communities. It’s a good place to learn about the Highland Clearances, a series of forced displacements during the 18th and 19th centuries. This sad period of history saw traditional land tenancies broken by landlords due to a change in land use from farming to sheep raising. Some of those forced out of their inland homes were moved to Helmsdale, and the town today has an Emigrants Statue to commemorate them. You might also like to visit the Timespan Museum and Arts Centre, which describes itself as a meeting place between past and future. Part museum, part gallery, part community workshop and archive, this heritage centre covers a huge amount of Highlands history.
 
At Latheron, follow the A9 as it turns inland towards Thurso.

 

As with the last leg, there aren’t many major centres of civilization - or minor ones - on this leg of the trip, so just enjoy the journey and stop to appreciate the small things and landscapes along the way. Be prepared for some remote driving, and leave yourself some wiggle room in the schedule for impromptu wild camping or a few nights in a campsite!

Thurso

The biggest town in the far north, Thurso is considered the mainland gateway to the Orkney Islands. Should you wish to visit these remote and beautiful isles, you can take a car ferry from the harbour at Scragster which is two kilometres to the northwest of Thurso, and make the 60-90 minute journey. These flat, green isles will invigorate you with their open spaces and craggy coastlines, giving way to endless views over a moody North Sea. Those who make the trip are rewarded not only with scenery but also with a range of things to do on the isles: wildlife spotting, archaeology tours to the fascinating sites around the region, visiting the gorgeous St Magnus Cathedral, eating some fabulous fresh seafood and browsing the crafts and music created by the many artistic locals.

Back on the mainland, you can take a look at some of the historic sites around Thurso. The ruins of Old St Peter’s Church and Thurso Castle are worth a look for those interested in very aged buildings, and in the newer part of town is (still quite old, just not by Scottish standards) is the gothic-era St Peter’s and St Andrew’s Church. Also of interest is Meadow Well, a unique circular wellhouse.

Caithness Horizons is a popular new attraction in Thurso, a modern museum which occupies what used to be the Town Hall and Carnegie Library. The permanent collection tells the stories of the Caithness region (the northern tip of mainland Scotland) from the beginning to now, through the Picts, the Vikings and more. The Dounreay Room is dedicated to the history of the nearby (and currently in the process of decommissioning) Dounreay Nuclear Power Development Establishment - a project which has had a huge economic and social impact on the region. The gallery houses rotating art exhibitions. Although small and localised, this new museum is a great one and well worth a few hours while you’re in Thurso.

North Coast

The northern coast of the Highlands region is an unspoilt and wild place, with a lot of drama to be seen in the vistas of cliffs, oceans and hidden coves once you are past the gentler landscapes around Thurso. Expect some narrow roads as you make your way along the rugged top edge of the country, and many twists and turns with a breathtaking view around each corner.

Each town and village you’ll see along the way has something to recommend it: a tearoom, an inn, a pretty old church. After crossing or skirting some deep “sea lochs,” you will arrive in Durness which is right in the northwestern corner of Scotland. This lovely  town on the dramatic coast is a central point for hikers in the region, and also where you can turn off to visit Balnakeil Beach, a stretch of white sand and dunes which is among the best in the country. Stop here for a picnic, or even a swim in the summertime.

From Durness, the road takes a more southerly direction and cuts inland to head across to Rhiconich on Loch Inchard, an inlet on the Irish Sea. This part of the western highlands is very hilly and riddled with small lochs and waterways - the kind of place where you could easily get distracted by the scenery and find yourself staying longer than intended! If you have the time, get off the A894 and take smaller roads like the B869 out towards the coast to visit Achmelvich, Lochinver and other beach villages. Ardvreck Castle, a small but atmospheric ruined fortress, lies along the main road on the shore of Loch Assynt and is an amazing photo op stop.

Ullapool is your final destination for this leg - but the Highland scenery doesn’t stop there!
 

Ullapool

Spread across a piece of land between Loch Broom and Ullapool River is the town of Ullapool. The first thing you’ll likely notice is the uniformly whitewashed buildings which are laid out in a grid - this town was carefully designed and built in the 18th century as a planned village to exploit a boom in herring fishing. The fishing industry has had its ups and downs but has remained the backbone of the economy here, with tourism adding its fair share in recent times.

Ferries to Stornoway on the island of Lewis and Harris depart regularly from Ullapool, and the small cruise ship Hebridean Princess is a frequent caller. Many outdoorsy types come to the town and use it as a base for hiking, biking and other forays into the surrounding Highland wilderness. If you’d rather stay close, it has some great pubs including the charming Ferry Boat Inn with its fresh seafood restaurant. Visit the Museum and Visitor Centre on West Argyle Street to learn more about the town and Loch Broom.

Follow the shore southeast and inland on the A835, which heads through a valley and past several waterways. Loch Glascarnoch was an artificial loch created by a hydropower station in the 1950s, and a recent lowering of the water level to make room for winter excess revealed submersed roads, bridges and telegraph poles that were hidden beneath the water.

At the small village of Gorstan, change to a southwesterly direction and get on the A832 to head past more lochs including Loch Luichart, Loch a’ Chuilinn and Loch Scaven - these providing plenty of lovely picnic stops!

At Stromeferry, which no longer has a ferry service, you can look across the inlet to the ruins of Strome Castle on the opposite shore. There is also a nice scenic walk here, with views of Loch Carron, where you can stretch your legs. The 2 kilometre long Stromeferry Woodland Walk trailhead is located minutes from the main highway and well signposted.

Kyle of Lochalsh

With a moniker that could easily see you mistake it for a person in casual conversation, Kyle of Lochalsh is a place with plenty of character. It may require a short detour, depending on whether you stick to the A890 from Achmore or take the coastal route, but it is well worth the visit and a natural stopping place.

The small and whitewashed town was once the departure point for ferries to the isle of Skye, now the origin point for the Skye Bridge which is part of the A87 and links the island to the mainland. Although the demise of the ferries means that visitors have less of an excuse to spend time in Kyle, many still stick around to acquaint themselves with the attractive coastal settlement at the mouth of Loch Alsh, a sea loch between Skye and mainland Scotland.

Of course, you may wish to add Skye to your journey, in which case you’ll take the bridge across and explore. The island is a 50-mile long wonderland of quintessential Scottish goodness - moors, mountains, cliffs, castles, cosy small towns and many arts and craft studios thanks to the creative inhabitants.

One interesting experience you can sign on for at Kyle of Lochalsh is a glass-bottomed boat trip aboard the Seaprobe Atlantis which has an underwater viewing gallery where you can be immersed in kelp forests, coral reefs and the varied marine life in Loch Alsh including seals and otters.

From Kyle of Lochalsh, it’s a short and pretty drive through more highland scenery to Fort William, the end point of this penultimate leg.
 

This short leg is the final stretch of your Scottish journey. The A82 will take you all the way from Fort William back to Glasgow to complete the loop, passing through one of Scotland’s beautiful national parks along the way.

Fort William

The highest mountain in the United Kingdom, Ben Nevis, lies directly behind Fort William which has a beautiful setting between peaks and sea lochs. Many people come to the area to walk on the slopes of the mighty mountain, either short hikes or  a trek to the summit.  There is a tourist path which allows even novice walkers to attempt to conquer Ben - but it’s not recommended during the winter or autumn months. The journey takes between 3.5 and 5 hours up, and significantly less to get down!

Before you start thinking that the town itself is overshadowed by its lofty neighbour, we can assure you that Fort William has plenty to see and do. Long considered a gateway to the highlands, this bustling place is called the Outdoor Capital of the UK, and welcomes many a visitor to its pretty streets. The dual carriageway which separates the town centre from the loch is a bit of a downer scenery-wise, but the town has everything you might need for a pit-stop in your journey - shops, galleries, restaurants and the West Highland Museum stocked with Jacobite memorabilia.

Sightseeing highlights around Fort William include Neptune’s Staircase, an eight-piece staircase lock on the Caledonian Canal which lifts boats 64 feet. Also of interest is the Old Inverlochy Castle, a picturesque ruin which was once one of the most important castles in Scotland thanks to its role in the first and second battles of Inverlochy.

Glen Nevis is ten minutes south of Fort William and one of the most impressive glens in the highlands: a U-shaped valley formed by glaciers, offering fantastic day walks amongst wildflowers and waterfalls. The short River Nevis, connecting Ben Nevis with the sea, flows through the glen, and you might recognise some of the scenery from the Braveheart movie. If you are staying in the area, the Glen Nevis Caravan and Camping Park is an excellent choice.

Put Fort William and Ben Nevis in your rearview and head down the shore of the loch towards Ballachulish and North Ballachulish, where you will cross Loch Leven and head inland towards Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. If you’re a keen golfer, you might want to stop at the Dragon’s Tooth Golf Course. This 9-hole course is affordable, welcoming and a great way to spend a few hours.

Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park

Your route will take you right through this gem of a park, and along the shores of the Loch Lomond. The 1,865 square kilometres of natural beauty are traditionally divided into four distinct parts: The Trossachs forested hills, Breadalbane where the craggy highlands mountains begin, Loch Lomond which is the largest expanse of freshwater in Britain, and the Argyll Forest. The park is home to 21 “munros” - mountains over 3000 feet - and as such attracts plenty of “munro baggers” who want to add to their list of conquests.

If bagging munros isn’t your bag, you needn’t fear boredom - the park has plenty to offer any visitor. Walking on a more level plane, cycling, golf, horse riding, canoeing, sailing and wildlife viewing are all good options. Try the Loch Lomond Bird of Prey Centre to get acquainted with the species which soar over the landscapes, or take a cruise on Loch Lomond in any one of a fleet of vessels which roam the waters. In the northeastern corner you might take a look at the Dochart Falls, and if you are really keen you could try a spot of rock climbing around the Breadalbane region.

Once out of the national park, you’re almost immediately on the outskirts of Glasgow where your journey began and ends. Drop off your motorhome rental and finish your adventure here, or carry on down into England - either way, you are sure to leave Scotland with fond memories.
 
 
Of course, there is no need to follow an itinerary by heart. You have the freedom to take your campervan hire in Luton, in Bristol, and all over the UK.