The Amazing Amalfi Coast: A Naples Round Trip

The first leg of your itinerary is all about history - with a few slices of pizza thrown in for good measure. You’ll begin in Naples to see some of the city’s top attractions before moving on to the fascinating archeological sites of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Naturally, you’ll also make a stop at Mt Vesuvius to explore the volcano that has directly shaped the course of history for ancient and modern cities in the region. Give yourself two days to explore it all without rushing too much, and don’t forget you may have spare time at the end of the trip to see more in Naples.
 
Naples
 
A vibrant city perched next to a glittering blue ocean, Naples is the meeting point of history, culture, arts, architecture, and mouth-watering food and wine. Picking up a motorhome in Naples is ideal for beginning a road trip around the coastline, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take the time to explore the city before getting started. Begin with a walk down Spaccanapoli, the street in the heart of the historic district and a bright and busy stroll that will give you a feel for Naples’ atmosphere. Pay a visit to the Royal Palace of Naples, as it’s one of the top attractions in town with its lavish interiors and museum, and innately tied to the city’s multiple switches in power. The National Archeological Museum is also worth a wander to see countless ancient Roman artefacts from throughout the region, as well as works of art from the Roman, Greek, and Renaissance times. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, make your way to the nearest restaurant or street vendor to taste the local pizza - Naples is, after all, the birthplace of this universally-loved treat.
 
Take the A3 out of the city heading south for roughly 30 minutes to reach your first stop. Note that this section of the road includes tolls.
 
Herculaneum
 
Herculaneum is an ancient Roman town that was destroyed by volcanic activity in 79 AD in the same eruption that destroyed Pompeii. Thanks to excavations and conservation work, the ruins are in surprisingly good shape, and you can take a tour to see items such as beds and doors preserved for years under layers of mud and ash. There were once an estimated 4,000-5,000 inhabitants living in this city, but they were buried along with the rest of the city under 16-25 metres of rock after a pyroclastic surge that wiped out the entire population. While devastating at the time, the event has given modern society a much clearer insight into what life was like in ancient times, and how the Romans lived. It is smaller than its more famous neighbour Pompeii, but much better preserved, so you will be able to see frescoes and mosaics, intact shops and buildings, and much more, as you tour the site.
 
After visiting Herculaneum, it makes sense to make your way up to the volcano that started it all.
 
Mt Vesuvius
 
Mt Vesuvius is still an active volcano, with its last eruption in 1944. Making your way to the top offers spectacular views out over Naples, Herculaneum, and beyond, and will give you a greater understanding and sense for the magnitude of the volcano’s sheer power and potential for destruction. To get up there, it’s best to park your motorhome in the parking lot and take a paid shuttle to the top or hop aboard one of the trains. Be sure to bring additional layers of clothing as the peak can be a lot colder than you might realise - even on a warm and sunny day. You will need to walk up the last of the trail to reach the very top, so a decent level of fitness is necessary. Once you reach the peak, you can join a short, free tour with a guide to learn about the volcano and its history, or simply stroll around to get a feel for this incredible site.
 
Next, join the A45 heading along the coastline for roughly 30 minutes to reach Pompeii.
 
If you need a place to sleep for the night before visiting Pompeii, Camping Spartacus is a popular option. This site offers spaces for motorhomes and is just 50 metres from the entrance to Pompeii, making it a little easier to arrive early in the day to beat the crowds!
 
Pompeii
 
Once a large city of 10,000-20,000 people, Pompeii is the most well-known ancient centre destroyed by volcanic activity, and often said to be the best archeological site in the world. Much like Herculaneum, Pompeii was devastated by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79AD when it was completely covered in volcanic ash. The event preserved a huge range of buildings, artefacts, and daily life as it was frozen in time so long ago. It is estimated that as many as 2,000 people were killed in the aftermath of the eruption, while the remaining population fled the area and never returned. The best way to see this vast site is to either hire a guide or pick up an audio guide, as there aren’t explanations of what you are seeing once you’re amongst the ruins. There are very few facilities on site, so bring extra water with you and wear sunscreen. You are also best to arrive early in the morning to beat the crowds, Pompeii is extremely popular and fills up quickly each day.
 
To finish this leg, continue along the E45 to join the SP1 and make your way down to Amalfi. This drive will take a little over an hour.

As you make your way onto the Sorrentine Peninsula to begin the second leg of your road trip, you’ll soon discover why this region is one of the most visited in all of Italy. Your first stop is in Amalfi, the heart of the Amalfi Coast and a town of brightly coloured homes and buildings, beautiful architecture, and charming hillside streets. Positano and Sorrento are similar coastal towns, but each offers their own unique flavours. To finish the leg, you’ll drive as far as the road takes you to the tip of the peninsula, then hike the rest of the way for an incomparable view at the Punta Campanella. Take your time with another couple of days for this leg.
 
Amalfi
 
Amalfi is a tiny town on the spectacular Amalfi Coast. Your drive into, around, and out of the city are all just as enticing and memorable as the village itself, so prepare to pull over whenever you get an opportunity to capture some photos. Once you reach Amalfi, you’ll be able to park and walk through the town, as it only takes 20 minutes to walk from one end to the other. Aside from the glittering coastal views, the main attraction is the Amalfi Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of St. Andrew. Head up the stairs in the heart of town and enter the stunning Baroque interior to explore the mix of Arab and Norman styles that influenced the structure’s architecture, and view relics of St. Andrew. Another gorgeous and interesting spot is the Museum of Paper, dedicated to the soft, thick paper that’s handmade in Amalfi and known around the world.
 
Drive along the coastline towards Positano, and note that this is a relatively narrow and winding road so you’ll need to take it slowly and give other vehicles as much room as possible so as not to damage your motorhome. Locals will honk their horns when coming around tight corners to let you know they’re coming, so don’t be surprised if you hear a lot of beeping!
 
Positano
 
Positano is another small and brightly coloured town climbing the hillsides along the Amalfi coastline. It offers a pebble beach where you can relax by the water, and more steep streets you can stroll through to explore and discover cafes, shops, and impossibly pretty views. There are options for kayak rental by the shorefront, as well as boat tours if you’re looking to get out on the water, and plenty of beach chairs at Fornillo Beach so you can spend a whole day in the sun. The dominant architectural icon is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which is hard to miss in the centre of Positano with its large dome and intricate, colourful tiles. Be sure to visit Grotta la Porta for a particularly pretty photo opportunity, and if you need to cool off, make your way to Vallone Porto, a secluded hiking spot just out of town with a refreshing waterfall and plenty of greenery.
 
Next, drive across the peninsula for just under an hour via the SS163 to reach Sorrento.
 
Sorrento
 
Sorrento is a little different to Amalfi and Positano as it faces the Bay of Naples and is perched up on top of the sheer cliffs overlooking the sea. The Piazza Tasso is the central square and the perfect place to begin your stroll through town to pick up a coffee and a snack. Boutique shops surrounding the square are stocked with bright and colourful clothing as well as cute souvenirs and things to take home. If there’s one thing that Sorrento is truly known for, it’s lemons. There are countless lemon groves surrounding the town, and many of them are used to create Sorrento’s famous Limoncello drink, a sweet and alcoholic liqueur that you’ll find in all local bars and restaurants, where it’s often offered as a palate cleanser after a meal. You can also reach the beaches here; you’ll just need to tackle the stairways or take one of the elevators down to the waterfront so you can dip your toes in the water.
 
One of the best campgrounds on the peninsula is just out of Sorrento, so consider stopping at Camping Village Santa Fortuna for the night. It’s right by the beach and has an array of on-site amenities such as a restaurant and market.
 
From here, take the road less travelled and drive the 40 minutes or so to the very tip of the peninsula.
 
Punta Campanella
 
The Punta Campanella is the point at the very tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula and is where you can look out over the sea to the island of Capri. It’s a spot that is not just beautiful but also considered sacred, as it is said that Ulysses met the Sirens at Punta Campanella. It also happens to be one of the best hikes in the region. You’ll park at Termini, then begin following the cobblestone road - a track that was once an old Roman route known as the Minerva Road, as it led all the way to the Minerva Temple at the end of the peninsula. You’ll pass through an olive grove and follow the well-marked path all the way to the end of the road. The hike will take roughly 2.5 to 4 hours depending on your fitness and how often you stop for photos.
 
Once finished, head back to your motorhome and drive approximately two hours along the SS145 via the coastline, past Naples, and onto the Phlegrean Fields just beyond the city to begin the final leg of your journey.

The final leg of your road trip from Naples pulls together many elements of the trip thus far: volcanic intrigues, ancient towns by the waterfront, hiking trails, and the grandeur of Italy’s rich history. You’ll begin in the Phlegrean Fields region to see its live volcano and Roman ruins, before tackling a mountain hike for refreshing views. The final stop on your tour is at the largest palace in the world - the Royal Palace of Caserta. Again, take another couple of days to finish the leg.
 
Phlegrean Fields
 
The Phlegrean Fields (sometimes also spelled Phlegraean) is an area just outside of Naples that includes an active volcano, the hometown of Sophia Loren, and an ancient Roman amphitheatre. Start with a visit to the Solfatara Caldera, an active volcanic area where the ground is too hot to touch, and you can watch as steam vents from the ground. It hasn’t actually erupted since AD 1198, but the bubbling mud pits and bizarre landscapes make it well worth the stop. You can even camp here, as there is a campground with RV sites right in the middle of the area for those who dare (and don’t mind the sulphur smell). Your next stop should be in Pozzuoli, the home of screen siren Sophia Loren and a place of numerous ancient structures. The Flavian Amphitheatre is the third-largest amphitheatre in Italy with seating for up to 40,000, and unlike the Colosseum, you can actually head underground into the caverns and corridors that helped the structure operate. It’s worth noting that this site is closed on Tuesdays. The Temple of Serapis is another site of Roman ruin worth seeing, also known as the Macellum of Pozzuoli. When it was first uncovered, archeologists found a statue of the god of Serapis and believed the site to be a temple, but later discovered that it was actually a Macellum - a marketplace. This site is also closed on Tuesdays.
 
From here, drive just over an hour north to reach Monte Tifata.
 
Monte Tifata
 
Monte Tifata is a mountain just to the north of Naples, but far removed from the rush of tourists you’ll find around many of the major attractions. It offers a spectacular hiking spot, an escape from the crowds, and a historic abbey to explore. As it’s the highest peak in the range behind Caserta, you’ll be able to easily see across the city and out over to Mt Vesuvius. To get there, follow the road up through San Leucio and turn left to head up the mountain. From the parking lot, you’ll start walking a stony - and sometimes steep - track up the hill for roughly an hour before you reach the large illuminated cross at the top. This is an excellent spot for a bite to eat and a few photos, and if you’re looking to keep going and visit the Sant'Angelo in Formis Church, you’ll need to carry on from here down to Mont Saint Nicholas - or you can drive there after you get back to your motorhome!
 
For one final stop, drive 30 minutes into the town of Caserta.
 
Caserta
 
Just a stone’s throw from Naples, Caserta makes for the perfect final stop on your motorhome tour. The main point of focus in the town is the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Royal Palace of Caserta. It is the largest palace in the world, and its grand structure was designed by Italian architect Luigi Vanvitelli, who essentially created the town of Caserta with this palace at its heart. Throughout its 18th and 19th century rooms and apartments, you’ll find a smorgasbord of Baroque artworks, including paintings, frescoes, marbleworks, and period furnishings. The gardens alone cover 3 kilometres of spectacular fountains, pools, and waterfalls, so bring your camera and good walking shoes to explore it all.
 
From here it’s just 30 minutes directly south along the E45 (another toll road) to return to Naples.
 
The Amalfi Coast, Naples, and the historical and scenic gems around this area are one of the biggest ‘must-dos’ in Italy, offering myriad experiences, sights, and tastes. There’s a lot to see, and when you only have a week or so to visit all the best spots, a motorhome tour of the Amalfi Coast is the perfect way to see it. It’s always a little bittersweet when you pull into your rental company’s parking lot to return your RV, but there’s no better cure than starting to plan your next great campervan adventure!