Touring New Zealand's South Island in a campervan
Camper road trip - Have time, will travel!
This is a guest post by Tim Warren, a recovering executive who now spends his time travelling and writing. You can follow Tim on Instagram, @follow.tim.warren
15 April, 2024
Woah, nothing booked this weekend and it's been a long time since I've been to the South Island of New Zealand.
I pull up Motorhome Republic and I’m spoiled for choice. I love space so I select the Ultima Plus/Euro Tourer from Maui Motorhomes. I like everything to be easy, so I get the full insurance and easy drop-off pack.
The booking is completed in 10 minutes and the email confirmation from Motorhome Republic arrives immediately.
20 April, 2024
The Maui pick-up point is near Christchurch. I show the confirmation on the THL app and it's quick to get my camper and I'm given a great tour.
Seating for several people converts into a large bed, while another doubles as a single. It drives like a car with top electronics, navigation, media, and Apple CarPlay. The high seating position and big windows mean you can see twice as much as in a car. Off the clock, I amble along the main road.
By mid-afternoon I arrive in Kaikoura town with camper parks everywhere. Just before sunset I park up at a friend’s property, and we go straight out to Kaikoura township. Several restaurants and bars make for a surprisingly good nightlife with an eclectic mixture of locals, travelling Kiwis, and lots of foreigners. I volunteer to be the sober driver because I want to get moving early in the morning.
21 April, 2024
I wake early and explore the waterfront, seals and all - Kaikoura is stunning!
After this, I head to Mount Lyford via the spectacular Inland Road. With views of the Seaward Kaikoura Range on one side and the Inland Kaikoura Range on the other, it gains altitude over a couple of hours, until it reaches a high plateau where the access road to the mountain starts. I drive up as far as I can, the lovely alpine forest thinning at the closed skifield road. What a view! It's also amazing I have full data reception at the top of the mountain - so I post. The air here is cool, crisp, and refreshing - perfect to stop for a drink and lunch.
I exit the skifield and explore further. Soon it's time to stop. I haven't planned a thing, but I have everything I need. I find ‘The Gates’ road and turn down the unsealed road. The big wheels on the camper make it easy.
Soon It's seven o'clock. The Formula 1 is on, so with my laptop hotspotted to my phone I take advantage of the 4G to watch the two-hour Formula 1 race on my own in the pitch black. It's heaven. While it's cold, there is plenty of bedding to ensure a great sleep!
“ It's fully dark by now and Hanmer is in a forest, so the rain and the darkness give a wonderful enclosed feeling as I pull into the well-attended overnight spot. ”
22 April, 2024
The empty Hanmer Road is gorgeous. I'm soaking in New Zealand's famous hot pools within minutes of parking in the plentiful camper spaces. It's an amazing spot with 22 pools of varying temperatures and mineral makeups, and a huge kids area with slides. It's school holidays, and this is a family facility, yet if you're looking for a quieter experience, just find a different pool. After two hours, I retrieve my gear, shower, and head to my camper for dinner.
A campsite with toilets is just up the road. It's fully dark by now and Hanmer is in a forest, so the rain and the darkness give a wonderful enclosed feeling as I pull into the well-attended overnight spot. Within minutes, I'm tucked up in bed and have a fabulous sleep.
23 April, 2024
I wake up to brilliant sunshine and after another soak, I head to the next spot, Maruia Hot Springs in The Lewis Pass.
The scenery is fabulous. I've nailed the time of year. All of the autumn colours combine with the dry hills. The road through Lewis Pass winds along the left side of the increasingly abrupt mountains and the river on the right. It then descends to river level, crosses the braided beauty, and then moves along the right side of the valley.
After stretching one hour's travel into three, I arrive at the next hot springs, which is just after the peak of Lewis Pass at 907 meters above sea level. This is the the epitome of hot springs with plenty of parking, and camping available. Exploring the river, I take too many photos. The scenery has changed to that of the distinctly darker and lusher West Coast.
Remote, exclusive, quiet. This is a resort! Hewn from the river rocks itself, the water bubbles naturally from below. The pools are small and shallow, for lying down and enjoying the natural beauty. Just four pools here, or five if you count the splash pool. There's also a steam room, a sauna, a restaurant, and a bar. A fully developed spa facility, it's a stunning spot where you could stay for a delicious night or three.
I planned to stay here for the night but instead, I drive. Lewis Pass was amazing in the middle of the day but It's jaw-dropping at dusk as I drive towards the rising full moon. I pick a beach just north of Christchurch so I'll have the benefits of remoteness and proximity to the city. I find my way through pitch-black night and silent roads to a boat ramp at Kairaki.
24 April, 2024
Drifting slowly awake to the sound of seagulls, I peek out my window to the most serene view.
I've nailed the positioning, meters from the water on the river estuary. To the left I see breakers and to my right, fishermen dot the river's edge.
Coffee on the road is a real treasure. Rugged up for the cool air, I sit with a full pot and soak in the scenery, chatting with the passersby as seagulls go about their morning routine.
Soon it's time to start my final trip. Just 35 minutes to the drop-off facility. It’s easy - I've paid for the full-service option with gas refill, a full clean and more. A quick inspection for damage (there is none), and then a cab to the airport!
I leave spare food on the ‘free shelf’ - I love this!
My motorhome journey is done. I'm a man inspired. I've travelled before, but never with this level of freedom.
I start planning my next trip….
Things I learned
- Get the extras: A slightly bigger vehicle and full insurance, cleaning, etc.
- Check in ahead of time if possible.
- Download maps and apps before you go.
- Take clothes for hot and cold areas and also a swimsuit.
- Take a shopping bag.
- Buy food as soon as you can.
- Use Google Maps to find outdoor parking
- A vague plan is all you need.
- Drive slowly, admire the view, stop frequently, never be in a hurry.
- The unplanned things on your journey can be the best.
- Aim to get to your night spot before sunset, but you’ll be fine either way!
